Although primarily known as the island where Napoleon was exiled after his defeat at Waterloo, the fascination with St. Helena goes back many more centuries. Much of its charm lies in its remoteness, which enabled the Portuguese, after their discovery of the island in 1502, to keep it a secret for the next 80 years. It was this isolated location that the British thought perfect to keep the defeated Napoleon.

St. Helena, a 'green gem set in a ring of bronze,' as a poet once called it, is surrounded by a magnificent coastline, with 1,000-foot-high cliffs dropping down to rocks pounded by the Atlantic surf. The countryside offers astonishing contrasts, ranging from wind-eroded desert with multicolored ridges and valleys to flax and tree-covered hillsides, soft pastures and vegetation-filled valleys.

Jamestown, the island's tiny capital, is also the only town. Among its most outstanding features is Jacob's Ladder, consisting of 699 steps that lead from the valley floor to the top of Ladder Hill.

Exploring Jamestown is a delightful treasure hunt, with its 18th- and 19th-century buildings.

Plantation House, the governor's residence built in 1792, is a favorite with most visitors because of the giant tortoises that live on the grounds (one of which is reputedly 200 years old). Equally popular is Longwood House, filled with Napoleonic memorabilia. It was here where Napoleon spent the final six years of his life in exile.

Tuna and Wahoo fishing adds much to the island's economy and serves as a recreational sport to the resident. Football is the most popular game followed by cricket and tennis, and the golf course at Longwood is pleasant but not championship material.

Because of the island's remoteness, even in today's jet age the only way to get there is by sea. Visiting St. Helena is rather like going back in time. Despite electricity, paved roads and cars, it has retained a way of life reminiscent of bygone days. The 5,500 islanders are British and proud of it.